Lebanese designer Elie Saab launches his haute couture autumn-winter 2022-2023 collection as part of Paris Fashion Week on Wednesday in France. Getty
Lebanese designer Elie Saab launches his haute couture autumn-winter 2022-2023 collection as part of Paris Fashion Week on Wednesday in France. Getty
Elie Saab also shows his womenswear collection, including this asymmetric gown. Getty
Elie Saab also shows his womenswear collection, including this asymmetric gown. Getty
Elie Saab presented this caped evening look at the Paris Haute Couture Week show. Getty
Elie Saab presented this caped evening look at the Paris Haute Couture Week show. Getty
Opening the Elie Saab autumn-winter haute couture 2022-23 show was this cutaway dress covered in black and red feathers. Getty
Opening the Elie Saab autumn-winter haute couture 2022-23 show was this cutaway dress covered in black and red feathers. Getty
More from the new Elie Saab menswear collection. Getty
More from the new Elie Saab menswear collection. Getty
Sensual folds of fabric. Getty
Sensual folds of fabric. Getty
A metallic gown decorated with a giant flower. Getty
A metallic gown decorated with a giant flower. Getty
An elegant nude satin gown. Getty
An elegant nude satin gown. Getty
One of the menswear couture looks. Getty
One of the menswear couture looks. Getty
Women were given capes, too. Getty
Women were given capes, too. Getty
Soft tiers of delicately coloured feathers. Getty
Soft tiers of delicately coloured feathers. Getty
Lavish gold beading cover this gown and cape. Getty
Lavish gold beading cover this gown and cape. Getty
Elie Saab's signature beadwork and a voluptuous collar. Getty
Elie Saab's signature beadwork and a voluptuous collar. Getty
This feathered cape was a debut look in Paris. Getty
This feathered cape was a debut look in Paris. Getty
A sheer, beaded dress is covered with a dramatic cape. Getty
A sheer, beaded dress is covered with a dramatic cape. Getty
One of the eight menswear looks unveiled. Getty
One of the eight menswear looks unveiled. Getty
A corseted gown is softened with voluptuous sleeves. Getty
A corseted gown is softened with voluptuous sleeves. Getty
A closer look at the intricate beadwork that is a signature of Elie Saab haute couture. Getty
A closer look at the intricate beadwork that is a signature of Elie Saab haute couture. Getty
A male model wears an embroidered cape. Reuters
A male model wears an embroidered cape. Reuters
A simple suit is worn with an intricately embroidered kaftan. Reuters
A simple suit is worn with an intricately embroidered kaftan. Reuters
A model is wrapped in dramatic red. Reuters
A model is wrapped in dramatic red. Reuters
The traditional bridal look closed the show. Getty
The traditional bridal look closed the show. Getty

Lifestyle

Luxury

Elie Saab launches menswear as part of autumn/winter haute couture 2023 in Paris

The show marks a new addition to the Lebanese designer's house

Sarah Maisey

July 06, 2022

  • English
  • Arabic

The Beirut couturier Elie Saab has unveiled his latest collection at Paris Haute Couture Week and for the first time it includes menswear.

In a shift of direction, Saab folded eight menswear looks into his womenswear offering, widening his appeal and pushing his atelier to new heights.

One of the menswear looks that appeared on the Elie Saab haute couture runway, for autumn/winter 2022-23. Getty Images
One of the menswear looks that appeared on the Elie Saab haute couture runway, for autumn/winter 2022-23. Getty Images

Opening the show was a dramatic cutaway, feathered gown, quickly followed by a matching man's cape, in the same iridescent black and red feathers. Worn over a velvet tuxedo suit, not only was this the first menswear look on the Elie Saab couture runway, but it also set the tone for the elegantly bohemian looks that followed.

Billowing capes, languid shirts and even a single-breasted suit in gold all arrived cut to perfection, and covered in the dense handwork the house is known for. One cape was edged with embroidery made to look like snakeskin, while another was totally covered in matte beads, to resemble the bubbled skin of stingray.

As the women's looks swept past seemingly conjured from air and beading, another men's cape was finished with grand swirls of golden embroidery.

The Elie Saab haute couture autumn/winter 2022-23 show delivered a new softness over Saab's trademark handwork, seen here as a cowled hood, over a decorated mini dress. Getty Images
The Elie Saab haute couture autumn/winter 2022-23 show delivered a new softness over Saab's trademark handwork, seen here as a cowled hood, over a decorated mini dress. Getty Images

Any other season, and the audience would be gushing with praise for the women's collection unveiled, now imbued with a new, more sensual feel.

Saab's trademark silhouettes were softened with voluptuous collars, oversized bows and great puffed sleeves, and after starting in black, much of the collection was taken up with discreet nudes and golds that were so delicate and fragile looking, the beads and sequins seemingly floated across the models skin.

One corseted, figure-hugging dress in palest blue was given thick golden edges — and enormous sleeves — while a nude sheath dress had dense crystals that seemed to fall away as they got closer to the hem. Topped with a ruff of organza petals, it was was romantic and dreamy.

Ordinarily, the collection would have drawn deserved and endless praise, yet against the new men's collection, it feels destined to play second fiddle, even if temporarily.

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Dresses that looked metallic turned out to be conjured from thousands of hand-applied sequins, while a white jumpsuit was fringed with trails of bugle beads, and a "lace" dress was in fact pieced from hand-stitched beads.

While Saab's skill at womenswear is beyond question, it was exciting to see that same hand-applied to menswear.

Saab has been crafting romantic, beautiful gowns for decades and has a devoted clientele all over the world. This new offering will speak to modern-day Lord Byrons, and those who appreciate beauty in all its guises. Elegant, richly embellished and exquisitely cut, this new take is fit for a prince.

Georges Hobeika joins hands with son Jad for haute couture collection in Paris — in pictures

Lebanese designer Georges Hobeika has collaborated for the first time with his son Jad. All photos: Georges Hobeika
Lebanese designer Georges Hobeika has collaborated for the first time with his son Jad. All photos: Georges Hobeika
The duo's shimmering opening look set the tone for the autumn/winter 2022 to 2023 haute couture collection, Eternal Gifts.
The duo's shimmering opening look set the tone for the autumn/winter 2022 to 2023 haute couture collection, Eternal Gifts.
Intricate embellishment is a Georges Hobeika hallmark.
Intricate embellishment is a Georges Hobeika hallmark.
Georges Hobeika, left, with son Jad.
Georges Hobeika, left, with son Jad.
Skirts were covered in a mirrored finish.
Skirts were covered in a mirrored finish.
The collection was brimming with ethereal looks, inspired by the natural world.
The collection was brimming with ethereal looks, inspired by the natural world.
Pops of yellow interspersed an otherwise muted colour palette.
Pops of yellow interspersed an otherwise muted colour palette.
A loose-fitting suit with crystal detailing.
A loose-fitting suit with crystal detailing.
The colour palette gradually expanded to include soft pinks and blues.
The colour palette gradually expanded to include soft pinks and blues.
A blue kaftan lined with feathers.
A blue kaftan lined with feathers.
The collection's restrained use of colour is evident in this menswear look.
The collection's restrained use of colour is evident in this menswear look.
An oversized bow detail.
An oversized bow detail.
There were flashes of skin throughout.
There were flashes of skin throughout.
A 3D floral effect.
A 3D floral effect.
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